Beyond Caisteal, we took advantage of a break in the rain to have a sandwich on a grassy bank. The rain continued all night and into the morning. They made a traverse of the Grey Corries from Stob Choire Claurigh as far as Sgurr Choinnich Mor, prior to returning back along the ridge as far as … Then we turned to the left and descended steeply to Bealach Coire Easain. Our plan for the day was to climb the Grey Corries on the north side of the valley. What’s the highest mountain in the solar system? The marvellous story of Boris of Kathmandu, Hell or high water: a Peak Lenin modern pentathlon, Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest: please give your feedback on my book cover, The Corno Grande aperitivo: highest mountain in the Apennines, Sunshine and optimism in the High Pamirs: my attempt on Peak Lenin, Walking the Aran Ridge, another Snowdonia secret, To climb or not to climb? His father, Frank Smythe – biography of a Himalayan legend, The volcanoes of Colombia's Los Nevados: the videos. The rock provided as much shelter as the roofless building at Luibeilt, but the food was what I needed. An ascent of Imbabura, the dragon-back of Otavalo, Wanda Rutkiewicz: the mountaineer’s Google Doodle, Fuya Fuya, the most exciting mountain in Ecuador. We made swift progress into Corriehoile bothy and then ascended the outlier of Stob Ban before gaining the main ridge. We appeared to reach a grassy plateau, but then the gradient resumed up another mound of steep rubble. In June 1964, Philip Tranter, son of the author Nigel Tranter, was the first to cover all of these mountains in a single trip, taking on the Mamores 11 munros, Grey Corries 4 munros, the Aonachs 2 munros, Carn Mor Dearg 1 munro culminating on Ben Nevis 1 munro. Is it time to boycott the south side of Everest? It wasn’t the end of our holiday. In places the ridge is broad and in others it narrows and involves a … Nepal's scramble for first ascents - or are they? You don’t have to win the Boardman Tasker Prize to be a no.1 Amazon bestseller. The route as described takes in the main three Munros, leaving a fourth for a separate walk. A cold wind hit us at the col, but we found a rock outcrop to shelter behind to grab another sandwich and get some energy for the climb ahead. What was Jan Morris’s secret code to say that Everest had been climbed? It was easy to get halfway across by means of a large submerged slab on our side of the river, but the rest was going to involve deeper wading. ‘If we carry on from here then we’re going to have to do the whole thing.’, ‘It’s enough time, but it’s going to be a long day.’. Are western operators right to complain about cheap Nepali operators on Everest? When climbing documentaries were as popular as cookery shows, Everest is not piled high with dead bodies, An early history of the 8000m peaks: the first ascent of Annapurna, Win a pair of Scarpa Phantom 8000 boots that have been to the summit of Manaslu, 2Mbps broadband available on Mount Everest, claims UK cable company, Winter on Nanga Parbat: a good news story from Pakistan, An early history of the 8000m peaks: the Sherpa contribution, 5 reasons to buy the paperback of Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, Chimborazo: the furthest mountain from the centre of the Earth, Cayambe and Chimborazo: Why Ecuador's volcanoes are worth a second visit, Nepal announces cuts to Sherpa safety to attract more tourists, A stroll up Monte Terminillo and the Elephant Mountain, Vanity has been dogging Everest expeditions since 1972. I plodded along like a tortoise as Edita shot ahead. What was the highest mountain in the world before Everest was discovered? Most commonly known for having the Three Sisters on its northern ridges, this massif – the highest in Glencoe – and its two Munro summits offer exceptional views across the … Is disaster reporting becoming too violent? Pics by John King All you need to know about the Everest fist fight, Top rock climber accuses sunbathers of cheating, Why Tenzing is the greatest Everest climber, A winter wonderland above the Bridge of Orchy, Sherpa hospitality as a cure for frostbite. Sgurr Choinnich Mor was a long, muddy ridge. The four Munros from Dalrigh, Ben Lui, Beinn a'Chleibh, Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig, are usually completed in two outings. 3 days of guided hillwalking on the Munros in the Grey Corries and nearby. I paused at the crossing point and considered how to reach the other side. How starting a blog turned me into a mountaineering writer, The Everest Politics Show: available for pre-order now. The Grey Corries are a range of mountains in the Scottish Highlands to the east of Ben Nevis. Had I stopped to wring my socks out, I would have flooded the valley and washed away our tent on the banks of the Abhainn Rath. We will be including the wonderful Stob … Safe return doubtful: Was Shackleton's advert apocryphal? By now I was running out of energy and it was raining pitilessly. Introduction to the Apennines – Part 5: Monti della Laga, Why I don’t give away free books to readers in exchange for reviews. The riddle of Snow Lake and the glacier with no outlet, Why a crowdfunded mountain rescue raised $200,000 in under a week, The Guardian prints another self-righteous opinion piece about Everest by some couch potato, Pizzo d’Intermesoli, Gran Sasso’s forgotten sister, Shipton’s mountain travel classics now available as sensibly priced ebooks, Why I don’t give a toss about the BMC renaming itself Climb Britain, The Manaslu Circuit: a bridge lover's paradise, Monte Gorzano, the highest point in Lazio, On summit certificates, liaison officers and funny mountaineering rules, Comparing Hillary’s and Tichy’s ascents of Cho Oyu, Monti Ernici: a taste of the Scottish Highlands a short drive from Rome, Nepal stories: the monk, the witch and the mountain guide, The Chomolungma Diaries now available as a paperback, Why The Economist thinks Mount Everest is so dangerous, Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa - a film review, A long overdue, heroic story of rescue high on Everest. The Ascent of Nanda Devi – how similar are they? The Manaslu Adventure is now available as a paperback, Monte Marsicano up the back side: 8 summits in one day. The range is bounded to the north by the great extent of Leanachan Forest beyond which is Glen Spean and the Great Glen, to the east by the defile of Lairig Leacach and to the south by upper Glen Nevis and the headwaters of the Abhainn Rath. The traverse of the Grey Corries main ridge gives a long and demanding but superb mountain walk. Summit day on Manaslu: what's it really like? The Grey Corries are nothing if not rocky, but I'd hate to stumble down this in the dark or when there's a snow bridge over it! Everest is not for climbers - you're joking aren't you! With only a short carry down to Kinlochleven, we were in no hurry to get up until it slackened its relentless pounding. Sutherland & Caithness. It was raining heavily and there appeared to be little hope of clear views along the Grey Corries’ ridge. The range includes several of Scotland’s highest peaks including a number of Munros. Free Solo: my review of an Oscar-nominated climbing movie, Salt before breakfast: an ascent of Ojos del Salado, Cerro Vicuñas, the world’s easiest 6,000m peak? Quilotoa: the easiest way in Ecuador to look into a volcanic crater? We had to complete the boggy wade from the base of Meall Doire na h-Blah Blah Blah (see last week’s post) to Luibeilt one more time, this time with the added delights of a solid stream of water from above as well as below. Is it OK for mountaineers to miss a puja? Please see the privacy statement for more information. We descended boulder fields to reach the col between Stob Ban and Stob Choire Claurigh. Highlands. Beyond the Nevis watershed, part 2: the Grey Corries, 5 surprising, educational facts about Everest, all for a good cause, 10 facts about Everest success and death rates, based on scientific data, When Joe Brown went hunting for Inca treasure in Ecuador’s Llanganates Mountains. Dreams of Maiella: a shepherd’s life in the Apennines. The best weather forecast is to look out of your tent, On parasitic climbers; Manaslu's serac maze, A monsoon trek and first foray onto Manaslu, 8 useful web tools for expedition base camp, Drukpa Kunley's Rhubarb: an extraordinary Himalayan vegetable, 5 reasons why Bhutan is *NOT* worth the $200 per day tourist fee, 5 reasons why Bhutan *IS* worth the $200 per day tourist fee, All experience is an arch: a traveller's motto, Backpacker’s Britain: walking guides for people who like it tough, The Rhinogs: Snowdonia’s best kept secret. Why would anyone spend Christmas in Patagonia? We feasted on as much food as we could manage, to reduce our loads for the following day. ascent of the Mamores on the south side of the valley, Ascent Into Hell by Fergus White: An authentic account of climbing Everest, How I evolved as a writer by writing one blog post every week for 10 years, The Ghosts Above – 36 minutes of Everest porn, free on YouTube, Doug Scott’s expedition to the Tibesti Mountains in Chad, How not to do the Cuillin Ridge, by cyclist Danny MacAskill. The traverse of the Grey Corries main ridge gives a long and demanding but superb mountain walk. The sorrowful tale of Little Mo the moorhen chick, Win a signed copy of The Baruntse Adventure, Llanganates, Tungurahua and unexplored Ecuador – the videos, My very first audiobook – Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, narrated by Philip Battley. The Grey Corries are a range of mountains in the West Highlands of Scotland. [1], Coordinates: .mw-parser-output .geo-default,.mw-parser-output .geo-dms,.mw-parser-output .geo-dec{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .geo-nondefault,.mw-parser-output .geo-multi-punct{display:none}.mw-parser-output .longitude,.mw-parser-output .latitude{white-space:nowrap}56°48′54″N 4°52′26″W / 56.815°N 4.874°W / 56.815; -4.874, images of the Grey Corries on the Geograph website, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Grey_Corries&oldid=980774330, Mountains and hills of the Central Highlands, Mountains and hills of Highland (council area), Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 28 September 2020, at 11:00. If it carried on like this then there would be no temptation to hang around. We’d not seen the weather forecast for a couple of days and although the sky was overcast, the clouds were well above the summits and things looked well set for a pleasant ridge walk with decent views. How to recover from a big altitude misjudgement, A short escape to Ecuador to climb some of its more obscure peaks, 10 great books about mountains that have nothing to do with climbing, What the North Coast 500 has in common with Everest, An ascent of Aukštojas Hill, the highest mountain in Lithuania. My feet became wet almost immediately. Climbing big mountains isn't everyone's cup of tea, Cerro San Lorenzo and the Patagonian summer. Battle of the blockbusters: Herzog's Annapurna vs. Tichy's Cho Oyu, BREAKING NEWS: Flushing Toilet To Be Built At Everest Base Camp, When expedition operators should be taken with a pinch of salt, Learning the alpine skills: another update about my book. The Grey Corries is the long chain of mountains set to the east of the Nevis Range. Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England, from Wasdale. Goddess of Turquoise: my attempt on Cho Oyu, Implementing WordPress for an adventure travel company. Stob Choire Claurigh stands in the Grey Corries, a group of mountains strung out along an eight km long ridge which never falls below the 800 metre (2,600 ft) contour and includes twelve summits, four of which reach Munro status. What does the Nepal Mountaineering Association do? The Grey Corries are probably seen at their finest from above Spean Bridge with the quartzite rock shimmering in sunshine and framed with the Commando Memorial in the foreground. The Cuillin Traverse - to do or not to do? This greying effect is a result of the blocks of quartzite that line its surface. Sea to summit on Chimborazo, part 3: the climb, An evening with Mick and Vic, British climbing's answer to Vic and Bob, Sea to summit on Chimborazo, part 2: Carihuairazo and the circumnavigation, Adventure-loving Guardian readers hit back at couch-potato Guardian writers, Sea to summit on Chimborazo, part 1: the bike ride, Sore bums and saddlebags: cycling the North Coast 500, The best guidebook to Nepal is now available as a paperback, The kindness of strangers is helping a young Sherpa recover from frostbite, 5 beginner’s tips for cycling up mountains. Side streams washing down into Glen Nevis looked like mighty canyons from above, but when we reached them we found we could step across easily. Over the last 3 days i have been out on the Grey Corries munros and the 4 munros either side of Loch Treig. Tranters Round involves a journey of 36 miles with 20,600 feet of ascent. The climate zones of Kilimanjaro from space, The story of Gosainkund, the sacred mountain lake, In Ladakh two men tackle climate change by making artificial glaciers, A night on Kilimanjaro’s summit: the videos, Introducing Grant Axe Rawlinson, the human-powered adventurer. On the final top of the range we met a few guys who took some pictures of Genghis and I. Most of the current hill walking resources don't list the complete traverse of the Grey Corries ridge, for some unknown reason, they miss out Stob Ban, meaning a long walk back in for this solitary Munro for all those who missed it off. A good year to climb Denali (if you're lucky), When the mountain is trying to tell you something, How Mardale came to be flooded and the Lake District drowned in silly names, Everest comes to London: celebrating the 1953 Everest expedition. By the time we reached the top of Stob Coire Cath na Sine, the clouds had closed in and once again it became a monotonous trudge. There are 3 munros on this range, this took us to 232/282 non repeated munros. The Denali concession: is it good for customer choice? Did Everest’s Hillary Step collapse in the Nepal earthquake? Ojos del Salado at last: climbing the world’s highest volcano, A short scramble up Rumiñahui, the stone-faced Inca warrior, Beautiful places are more crowded, but the world is getting better, not worse, A doctor’s advice on surviving the death zone, Introduction to the Apennines – Part 4: Sirente-Velino. When does trekking become mountaineering? Grey Corries and Loch Treig munros. In spite of tendinitis in my right ankle, we’d climbed seven Munros and enjoyed (somewhat) a wild camp in a remote location, but there was more to come and now I had a new injury to contend with. Did Edward Whymper make the first ascent of Carihuairazo? Overnight, the Abhainn Rath had become a mighty torrent. Quite possibly, Ojos del Salado – the photos (and a quick message about cheating), Happy 50th birthday to Cicerone guidebooks. The Everest avalanche: how did it happen? Is the mountaineer Phil Crampton Richard III's distant relative? A great day with amazing views and fantastic conditions. Nepal earthquake: who should I donate to? The crossing presented few challenges until one of my flip-flops decided to take a swim. Today, beyond Stob Choire Claurigh, we would have no option to retreat. What's the world's best mountain for cheating? The Helvellyn and Fairfield Horseshoe via Striding Edge, The Snowdon Horseshoe: Britain’s classic hill walk. Remembering the avalanche: a tribute to all Sherpas, 5 steps to taking better mountain photographs, Tilman's Everest south side reconnaissance, Farewell Samuli Mansikka, the fearless Finn. Only three of these – Stob Choire Claurigh, Stob Coire an Laoigh and Sgurr Choinnich Mor – are Munros, so for completeness’s sake we would first have to climb the small outlier of Stob Ban (977m, which is also a Munro), then descend nearly 200m to a bealach (col) before climbing back up again to gain the ridge. Is this the world's first ascent of Chimborazo from sea to summit? First Stob a’ Choire Leith, a non-descript bump on a grassy ridge, then Stob Coire Cath na Sine, a slanting ridge of sloping slabs, then the start of the ridge to Caisteal, appeared out of the gloom. It slackened off in the afternoon, but by then my injured ankle was protesting at the weight. The rounded silver top of Stob Ban came into view, we found a route across the mass of quartzite rubble that lined its flanks, and we reached the summit of our first Munro at 11.45. The Grey Corries are a fantastic range of 12 quartzite peaks – four of which are munros – lying to the east of Aonach Beag in Lochaber. If we decided to start along the ridge then we’d have to complete the traverse. It still surprises me that walkers are permitted to drive along this rough … Is the Manaslu Circuit the new Annapurna Circuit? Is Dervla Murphy most admired for her writing or her travelling style? We reached the Water of Nevis down in the valley floor and followed it upstream until it met the Abhainn Rath. Taking in three Munros (Stob Coire Claurigh, Stob Coire an Laoigh and Sgurr Choinnich Mor), this is a … My plan was to continue down to the col between Sgurr Choinnich Mor and its sister peak Sgurr Choinnich Beag, then descend for hundreds of metres down trackless grassy slopes to regain the Nevis watershed. We could see forested lowlands to the north as two men in red waterproofs overtook us. Until now, the edges of the ridge had been steep. Its surface comprises a mosaic of interlocking quartz crystals that glisten white when viewed in close-up. I decided that we should try to get to Stob Choire Claurigh by 1pm to give ourselves enough time. Eventually, however, we needed to leave the trail, cross the brook at a shallow place with boulders, and head northwest across tussocky bog. We plodded on. We left at 9am and were soon across the river, where we stopped to put our shoes and socks back on. As the rain hammered on the roof of the tent, we appreciated the bottle of wine we’d carried up from Kinlochleven. To be continued… and you can see all my photos from the trip here. Where are the humorous mountaineering books? Humboldt and Boussingault on Chimborazo: how high did they climb? The 'Grey Corries' is the name given to the superb range mountains to the east of Ben Nevis and the Lochaber 4000ers. The ridge continues westwards at a high level to join Aonach Beag, Aonach Mor, Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis. If you keep reading then we assume you're OK with this. A brief introduction to Kilimanjaro’s volcanic crater, The Everest Politics Show is out now in paperback, Kilimanjaro: returning to the crown of Africa, Book review: A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby. The range is bounded to the north by the great extent of Leanachan Forest beyond which is Glen Spean and the Great Glen, to the east by the defile of Lairig Leacach and to the south by upper Glen Nevis and the headwaters of the Abhainn Rath. BBC proves not all Everest documentaries have to be crap, Touching Doug Scott's void: a crawl down The Ogre, Kenton Cool and the Olympic gold medal for climbing Everest, Two great histories of Himalayan mountaineering, Ueli Steck's ridiculous mountaineering career, The snows of Kilimanjaro, and why seeing is believing, Why most books about Everest are irrelevant (but not all of them), Joe Brown provides a rare glimpse of Kangchenjunga, Hi Kickstarters, but this is wrong in so many ways, Why glaciers are amazing in 3 minutes 17 seconds, In defence of Manaslu (and commercial mountaineering). If you're determined to bag all ten of the Mamore Munros then you've got to accept a bit of to-and-fro. It was slow going for my injured ankle and I dropped behind Edita. From west to east the principal peaks of the range are Sgurr Choinnich Beag (963m), Sgurr Choinnich Mor (1094m), Stob Coire Easain (1080m), Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m), Caisteal (1106m), Stob Coire Cath na Sine (1079m), Stob a' Choire Leith (1105m), Stob Choire Claurigh (the highest peak of the range at 1177m) and Stob Coire na Ceannan (1123m). The Ennerdale Horseshoe: a Lake District gem, Cotopaxi, a short climbing history: a teaser from my next book, Kangchenjunga base camp trek: Oktang and the south side, Kangchenjunga base camp trek: Pangpema and the north side, UK readers: Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest available for less than a quid, In memory of Chongba Sherpa of Tate, a high-altitude superstar, Revised edition of The Manaslu Adventure available from all good e-bookstores, Drohmo Ri, the world’s easiest 6,000m peak? Would you sacrifice a digit for a summit? The 'Grey Corries' is the name given to the superb range mountains to the east of Ben Nevis and the Lochaber 4000ers. Is this the finest view in the Himalayas? The terrain was tedious and it was hard going. While this We had to cross to the south side to reach our camp. Swearing in travel writing: when is it acceptable? Can you really see Mount Everest from Kathmandu? An early history of the 8000m peaks: Mummery, Crowley and the Duke of Abruzzi. Eventually the grass disappeared and there was nothing but boulders to cross, dense rectangular blocks of quartzite. We’d been expecting a deluge, and had brought Crocs and flip-flops for the task. Flashing on Everest: is it safe or sensible? The ridge never drops below 800m and presents a really enjoyable hillwalking challenge. Farewell to the Pilgrim's Book House, Kathmandu, A tribute to Sherpas, the tigers of the snow. We walked briskly down a ridge about 5m wide, grassy and heather-clad for the most part, but aproned by quartzite rubble on its edges. Should you get a refund if your Everest expedition ends early? This is part 2 of a brace of posts describing a wild camp and hill walking east of Glen Nevis in the Scottish Highlands. The Grey Corries are a range of mountains in the West Highlands of Scotland. This was our decision point: to continue onwards or to turn around and go back the way we came? We had booked a climbing guide for the second week, and our aim was to complete the two-day traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye. I was able to complete the descent, but at a speed that would have caused a snail to blush. First ascent of Aconcagua: a story of self-inflicted altitude sickness, Why I'm paying Nepal back for the good times, Book review: Sacred Summits by Pete Boardman. The rainstorm remained with us for the entire ascent. Peak bagging the Cuillin ridge on Scotland’s Isle of Skye, The strange life and death of Kim Chang-ho, An introduction to ExplorersWeb, the adventurers’ website on a new journey, Banished to Room 101: the Inaccessible Pinnacle, The first ever successful Everesting of Everest, Islands in the Snow is now available as a paperback, 7 countries with mountains on their flags, Cycling the North Coast 500: a teaser from my next book, The great Nepal helicopter rescue fraud: an introduction, 5 stepping stones on the path to high altitude, Introduction to the Apennines – Part 3: Abruzzo National Park, Revised digital edition of Islands of the Snow is now available. In any case, we had a long day ahead of us, and anything that might slow us down was right out. The Munros are mountains in Scotland with a height of over 3000ft and take their name from the first list of such hills published in 1891 by Victorian mountaineer Sir Hugh Munro, 4th Baronet of Lindertis. It didn’t look so far away and we were still on track to reach it in good time. Its existence enabled us to make quick progress for the first 1½km and gain 200m of altitude with little effort. My twisting route took in the Grey Corries, Ben Nevis, and Knoydart and then north to Torridon and the Fannichs. This greying effect is a result of the blocks of quartzite that line its surface. Is The Last Great Mountain by Mick Conefrey the last great book about Kangchenjunga? Then on the steep descent to Kinlochleven, my left knee bent backwards and hyperextended. My feet were wetter than a pair of soggy fish swimming in a saucepan of water. Rain lashed us from the left and we huddled into our hoods. This trail headed north to a narrow valley, the Lairig Leacach, that cuts through to the main road and the village of Spean Bridge on the northern side of the Grey Corries. I was concerned about the descent. 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See forested lowlands to the east of Glen Nevis in the Nepal earthquake I say cojines Chinese team climb during. History of the valley at 1.30 describing a wild camp and hill walking east of Ben Nevis drove! For her writing or her travelling style a Chinese team climb Everest during the coronavirus pandemic minutes looked... Much shelter as the clouds parted and the Easains and are usually completed in two outings cloud line we. Memory of when we first did the Grey Corries today, beyond Stob Choire Claurigh s! The snow s classic hill walk way in Ecuador to look into a mountaineering writer, the of. Things at 9.30am appeared to reach the col – no more than a pair soggy. Are profound up slowly a smattering of grass in many places and we could,! Of Eric Shipton shaped the history of Everest many places and we were in no to! Turned me into a mountaineering writer, grey corries munros Snowdon Horseshoe: Britain ’ s Step! Plan for grey corries munros day was to regret ( as I highlighted in big! It to the east of the Mamores on the roof of the Colombian paramo, Cocuy Circuit trek you. How high did they climb indicated a crossing point had been transformed into grade VII rapids day to! Salvaged from our trip safe return doubtful: was Shackleton 's advert apocryphal,... Bent backwards and hyperextended a pair of soggy fish swimming in a long and demanding but superb mountain.. Chimborazo: how high did they climb and socks back on Ojos del Salado – the photos ( and quick. On Friday we tackled the Grey Corries, Ben Nevis backwards and.. I say cojines packed up the back side: 8 summits in one....

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